A Day Aboard the Paddle Steamer Waverley

What an amazing trip — and what an inspiring subject for sketching and painting! My partner and I spent the day on the Waverley, the world’s last seagoing paddle steamer, travelling from Portsmouth along the Jurassic Coast.

The Journey

We left Portsmouth at 9am, stopping first at Yarmouth, Isle of Wight, just before noon. From there, the ship steamed on to Swanage, arriving at 1:50pm.

The afternoon took us past iconic landmarks — the white chalk stacks of Old Harry Rocks, rugged Anvil Point, and sweeping views across the Jurassic Coast. We turned at the mile marker “W” before looping back towards Bournemouth Bay. By 4:50pm we were back at Swanage Pier, then onward again towards the Needles and Yarmouth, before finally returning to Portsmouth around 9pm.

It was a long day at sea, but full of atmosphere and breath taking scenery.

Life on Deck

The weather added its own drama: it was windy and choppy all day, and bitterly cold. At first we sat near the front, but after 40 minutes of battling the wind we retreated to the back, where we stayed for most of the journey apart from short wanders around the ship.

Many passengers sought shelter in the dining areas, but I was determined to sketch from the deck. I managed quick drawings of Yarmouth Pier, Old Harry Rocks, and the layered cliffs of the Jurassic Coast. My tiny travel watercolour set was perfect — just a small wash brush, a few primaries and secondaries, and an elastic band around my sketchbook to stop the pages flapping in the wind. (Next time, I’ll definitely take more clips!)

Fingerless gloves and a woolly hat were essential, and tissues proved invaluable for cleaning my brush between colours. Working outdoors like that was challenging, but it captured the freshness of the sea air and the shifting light in a way no photograph could.

Below Deck in the Engine Room

No trip on the Waverley is complete without visiting her engine room. It was very warm, extremely noisy, and absolutely fascinating. This seemed to be the place where all the true Waverley enthusiasts gathered, eyes fixed on the vast triple expansion steam engine pounding away.

My partner could hardly be persuaded to leave, although the enclosed, swaying space soon made us both feel queasy! It’s easy to see why this area has such a pull though — the machinery is exposed in all its glory, and you can watch the engineers responding to the clang of the telegraph as commands come down from the bridge.

A Shared Experience

Around 50 people, like us, stayed on board for the entire trip. Others hopped off at Swanage and re-joined later in the day, which made it feel like a little travelling community. A few fellow passengers noticed me sketching and stopped to chat — lovely moments that made the day feel even more sociable despite the cold wind.

The Waverley’s Story

The Waverley is more than just a ship — she’s a piece of living history. Built in 1946–47 to replace her predecessor (sunk at Dunkirk in 1940), she first sailed in Scotland on routes through Loch Goil and Loch Long.

At the end of her working life in 1974 she was famously saved, gifted to the Paddle Steamer Preservation Society for £1. Thanks to decades of restoration and a £7m rebuild in 2003, she now tours the UK each summer season. Today, she is the world’s last seagoing paddle steamer, still powered by her original 2100 horsepower steam engine, and remains one of the country’s best-loved attractions.

A Day to Remember

Sailing the Jurassic Coast on the Waverley was unforgettable. The wind, the cold, the salt spray, the views, the sketches, the friendly passengers — all wrapped into a single, exhilarating day.

We came home tired, windswept, and a little seasick, but with sketchbooks full of inspiration and memories of travelling on a piece of history. If you ever get the chance to step aboard the Waverley, take it — it’s an experience like no other.

Top Tips for Sketching on a Boat

• Dress for the weather – Fingerless gloves, a woolly hat, and plenty of layers kept me warm while my hands stayed free to draw.

• Keep it simple – A tiny travel set (waterbrush and your favourite watercolours) is all you need. The less you carry, the less you risk losing to the sea!

• Secure your sketchbook – An elastic band helps stop the pages flapping in the wind. Extra clips are even better.

• Bring tissues – Essential for cleaning your waterbrush between colours (and handy for salt spray too).

• Choose your spot – Find a sheltered corner of the deck with seating. Moving less means fewer interruptions to your sketching.

• Sketch quickly – The scenery changes fast, and so does the light. Capture shapes and colours rather than details — you can refine later.

• Embrace the experience – Choppy seas, moving crowds, and sea spray all add character. Let them influence your sketch rather than fight against them.

What unusual places have you sketched before?

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Blog you later!